These are cast in Aluminite. A two-part plastic that sets in about 3 minutes. It is best to let them stiffen up for 15 minutes before pulling them from the mold as they will be still a bit bendable.  Obviously, these could be used in any scratch building or kit bashing project.

There is a greater variety of doors and windows in the "G" gauge line.

We have been told via the JS Newsletter of Jan. 2001 that Kathy Mortello of Corfu, NY is a good contact if you are in need of a resin that is reasonably priced and user friendly. You may contact her at:  kathy mortello@hotmail.com

Kathy is well known in Western NY State. She has conducted seminars on Casting with ThermoCast RP-40 Resin.

The use of Concrete Colorant

Here are both "G" brick and Squared Stone.  The brick was cast in concrete, but with the addition of colorant from QuickCrete.  There are two schools of thought here.... either paint in the mortar lines or paint in the stone/brick. I, personally, like to use both as shown.  QuickCrete colorants are available in 'brick red', black, buff, and sienna.

The brick shows the use of a 'Key' piece. Once a structure is glued together, a thin mortar is brushed on which fills the cracks between the pieces. A very consistent wall is the result.

The arched pieces are both (stone and brick) on one mold along with the arched window.  It is available by its self - SM5. The arches are cast, then inserted into the mold for the large block (above) and the concrete is poured around the top/sides of the arch.  I'm using two Stone arches for a 'moon' window above my Brick engine house doors. Or, they could also be used as a 'rose' window in a church.

A neat trick is to build a single layer of stone as a foundation. The foundation is 'planted' in the garden.  Then the brick structure is added on top and may be removed for additional detailing. Or, weed-whacking, but without whacking the details off your structure!!!   Even with out the structures, the empty foundations leave a nice slum-clearance look between operating sessions....

Using the Brick under a Stone structure also works visually.  Or a Stone or Brick beneath a Clapboard structure.

The right stuff and the wrong stuff!

Rule of thumb:
      If it comes in a bag or sack, it's probably not the right stuff.....

Thorogrip
      White bucket, it is found in hardware stores or masonry supply houses.
      Warning! Thoro-seal is not the same thing.

Quickrete Anchoring Cement
      Yellow bucket, comes in two sizes, Small (5#) and Medium (#10).
      Has been found at both Lowes and Home Depot.

UGL Fast-Plug
      Tin Cans, made by Dryloc.  Found size (#50) at True-Value and ACE hardware.

Swift Set
      White Bucket, at Sears Hardware Stores.  Iffy, works for some people.....

Bonsal
      Yellow bucket, found in North Carolina in local lumber yards.
      Not Lowes nor Home Depot.

Rocktite
      Cardboard box, from hardware stores.
      Tends to be absorbent once cured. Perhaps not for exterior work.

Durham's Water Putty
      Comes in a cardboard cyclinder like oatmeal.
      Only good for inside models.
      Excellent for making castings to be cut and fitted for making custom molds.

Okay, this is what I use.  And it's the best!  'Cause I say so, okay?

Concrete Crack Filler!  There! Now you know the secret of the ancients.....we used it on the pyramids.

The one I use is the Bonsal Brand.  Unfortunately, unheard of outside of North Carolina.

However, it is basically an acrylic resin emulsion with a very fine grain sand in suspension. Quickrete also makes the same stuff.  And that is available across the land.

The nice thing about it is that you have a couple of minutes to work with it.  I squooze it (comes in a 1 quart squeeze bottle) on one piece. Press the pieces together.  Then use a wet brush to push the sand into holes and out of details on the facing side. On the back I use the brush to smear it over the joint/crack, so that the back is filled in smooth.

In about 2 minutes it is set enough to go to the next piece.

Generally, I go back and forth between two sides of a building or a bridge.  This gives a little extra set-up time to each piece.

The finished wall will take paint, dye, stain, or whatever equally well.