Q: What will I need to have to cast Jigstones?
A: A set of molds, anchoring cement, mixed in a 3:1 ratio, cement to water. (Put the water in the container first and add the cement until it is the consistency of pancake batter.)
If you are mixing very small batches for 3-6 molds, use a 16-oz. plastic cup and either a narrow wooden spoon or a 1"=wide piece of wood. (Cement will not stick permanently to wood.)
Pour your batter to the top of the mold and once all has been poured, skim across the surface with a putty knife. Set aside to dry.
Q: What will I need to complete a project?
A: You will need a few minor tools. First, place a board, large enough to hold the model you are building on a Lazy Susan. The Lazy Susan will make the job of turning the model easier. Cover the board with a cross-patterned or graph paper to keep your sides straight, then cover that with plastic wrap used to cover leftovers. When you are happy with it, blue it together.
Q: I'm going shopping. Will I need to buy any other tools to successfully complete my project?
A: Well, there's need and there's want. You will need to file down some of the "key" pieces for a comfortable fit. AT first I used an emery board, then used a rasp (until I lost most of my knuckles). Now, I use a battery-powered Dremel that I bought at WalMart for under $30.00. I won't work without it...rather than purchasing tons of sanding cones, I bought a diamond head attachment for it for around $5.00 and have used it well over a year now, without it showing the slightest wear.
I've a small "ping" hammer that I use to gently tap pieces into place.
My husband very kindly "squared off" two 6x10" boards so that I could hold them against the sides of buildings to ensure straight walls and square corners.
I got a large inexpensive bag of cotton swabs an use them to "roll" against oozing glue from between bricks; then I toss them.
Q: How frequently should I clean my molds? What should I use to clean them?
A: At first I tried to meticulously clean the molds each time I used them. Don't bother! Repeated pourings will not affect the quality and detail of the casting. You will know when the mold is in need of cleaning by the way it feels. It will feel, well, tacky. I find that if I've repeatedly cast and have left the molds for a few days, they feel "wrong." Sometimes I ignore that and continue, but usually wish I'd cleaned them. Using Murphy's Oil Soap in warm water works well if the mold is not extremely dirty.
Lately I have been using a process that probably would have silicon rubber manufacturers shutter, and because I have only used this "technique" a short time -- yearly a year -- I don't know what long term effect it will have on the molds. I share it with you hesitantly: Use it at your own risk. It does work.
I fill the kitchen sink with about 4 inches of warm water; then I pour in about a 1/2 cup of Lime-Away toilet bowl cleaner. Let the molds soak for around 20 minutes and then begin the process of actual cleaning. I finish the cleaning process with a short soak of Murphy's Oil Soap in an effort to counteract the harshness of the cleaner. It also clears my guilty conscience.
When I clean the molds, I usually clean 15 to 20 at a time, so adjust your proportions accordingly.
Q: Is there anything I should avoid?
A: Portland Cement is tough on the detail of the molds: Avoid using it.
Don't leave a casting in overnight unless you have no choice.
Don't throw away broken blocks -- glue them together and let them dry, you can still use them.
Don't build with wet block; let it cure at least 24 hours before you attempt to work with it.
Once you have your sides in place, remember to pour a 1- to 1-1/2" cement base into the bottom of the structure of stability and support.
If you are building a structure with a "free" side, such as a goods shed or engine house, remember that when you pick the structure up, the bottom of the unsupported side will go "inward" unless you prevent it from doing so... If you have a situation like this, try the following. Get the top of a carton of copy paper. It will measure approximately 12x17x3". Line it with plastic wrap. Put your structure on a block about every 6 to 8 inches. Pour a base into the box so that it covers the stilts and 1/2 of the first course. Let it dry and peel the box and plastic wrap away. You will sink the base under your track.
Q: Any more questions?
A: Just ask. Send me an email or drop me a note. I'll be happy to respond. (E-mails preferred.)
