Wyckoff Saw Mill Exhibits
JigStones Versatility

Richard Wyckoff, a retired machinist from Owasco, NY, built this lumber mill based on a working mill owned by a friend years ago. He selected to use JigStones only on the powerhouse portion of his structure and created a pleasing-to-the-eye blend of wood, stone and tin.
      Dick has animated the workings of the mill by using a small electric motor, mounted beneath the workbench, to drive the log and carriage (mounted on HO track) back and forth past the circular saw. The blade is belt-driven by a working Jensen steam engine/boiler located in the powerhouse, along with a pile of wood scrap to simulate the boiler's fuel.


Dick's tin roof was crafted from strips of used aluminum print plates bought for a song at the local newspaper. He tempered the aluminum in a 400 degree over for 30 minutes and ran them through a 9" corrugator made by Fiscar®.

Constructing Arched Windows or
Decorative Balcony Rail with SM5

JigStones mold SM5 contains arched components for both stone and brick arched window surrounds. Cast the arches and let them dry thoroughly before removing them from the mold.
      Once the arches have cured, remove them carefully from the mold. If theys hould break in two, do not discard but glue them together with a mortar repair sealant and let dry. Now you are ready to cast the arched block.
      Place the curved arch face down into your empty large walling block mold. (See diagram below.)

Mix cement to batter consistency and cast your block "backfilling" against the outside of the precast arch Leave the inside of the arch empty as shown in the diagram above.
      Once your new casting has set enough to remove from the mold, do so carefullly. The casting will be "green." This is the best time to scrape away cement which has seeped under and across the face of your stone arch. Set aside to dry and move to your next composite casting.
      An arched window adder is included in the SM5 mold kit which fits nicely onto the casting produced by the WM1 window mold frame.
      These are the castings that are placed along the top of the castle wall to give it an interesting perspective as a roof-top balcony.

Your Castle's Finishing Touches

The door to the castle is taller and wider than a conventional residential structure. Therefore I fashioned mine gluing wooden coffee stir sticks edge to edge over an 1/8" thick square to create large plank doors. I made the piece slightly taller and wider than the door space. Once dry, I stained, positioned and glued the door in place, using it as a "dam" before filling with 1-1/2" base with the cement.

        The large brass "door latch" was purchased at a craft shop carrying dollhouse hardware. (If you are unable to find one, let me know; I have in stock for $2.50 each.)
        Accent your model with #10 and #11 walling piece fillers wherever the design reduces or flares. Corners of the wing balcony use a #8 square filler and small angle from the SM3 mold.

Making Stained Glass Windows Using WM3?

Simply paint the silicon mold using acrylic colors before you cast. Once the pain is dry, pour your 2-part plastic or casting medium into the mold. When the casting cures, the paint will bond itself permanently to the finished product.