Ray and his son-in-law Marty, used a polyurethane concrete sealant for the mortar/adhesive. They figure it took about six hours to face the ovens with JigStones.

The domes of the ovens were another challenge. Ultimately, Ray cut a basketball in half (see above) and used each half for dome molds. He used Structolite as it is much lighter than cement and just as strong.

When fully assembled, he painted the JigStones gray, and filled in around the domes with crushed granite. He cut doors from roof flashing, distressed them, and then apinted the doors flat black.

If you have an industry on your line, you may want to build coke ovens. The iron- and steel-making industry uses coke as fuel for production.

Some people have wondered about the durability of buildings left out in sub-zero temperatures. I am aware of some who leave their buildings out year 'round. I prefer to bring them in during the winter months to inspect and make cosmetic adjustments. You may find that a roof or surface area is in need of attention.

Examine roof areas for peeling and cracking, and walls for cracking or shrunken connections. Peeled areas should be stiff-brushed, washed with denatured alcohol and repainted. Damaged walls shold be repaired with premixed "mortar repair sealant."

Protect repaired buildings from harsh weather conditions and be sure they are thoroughly dry before reinstalling on your layout.

When I first started using my JigStones molds, I meticulously cleaned them after each time I made castings. I soon discovered that it not only ate into my casting time but slowed production and was unnecessary. Minor residue on surface areas of the mold does not affect subsequent castings. So, when shold they be cleaned?

Molds in need of cleaning will take on an overall tacky feel. The original manufacturer of the molds recommended using an oil soap. The only oil soap I was able to find that would work was Murphy's Oil Soap. It works moderately well diluted in warm water. By moderately, I mean you will still need to use a brush or cloth and attack detailed areas in the mold crevices. Rinse them, shake them out, and let air-dry on a flat surface.

Lately I've been "cheating." I share this technique, but honestly am not sure that I generally recommend it, as I don't know if the life of the mold is affected — only time will tell. I soak the slimy molds in a weak solution of warm water and Lime-Away toilet bowl cleaner. I let the molds sit 15 to 20 minutes and then use the Murphy's Oil Soap as a lubricating rinse.